Kitchen gadgets review: the Ooni Pro pizza oven – stoking it is sheer addiction

It’s beginning to feel a lot like calzone … Rhik Samadder tests the Ooni Pro pizza oven.


Photograph: David Levene for the Guardian

The Uuni Pro pizza oven is a steel furnace with fuel compartment, chimney stack and stone floor. Roasts Italian flatbreads, quickly.


If you can handle the heat, get out of the kitchen.


Pizzas cook in 60 seconds. 
It’s December, which means everyone’s thoughts turn to pizza. (Look, it’s December, I need to review all the things I haven’t got around to, while incapacitated by wine, so just go along with this. It’s beginning to feel a lot like calzone, yeah?)


The Finnish brains behind Uuni make transportable wood-fired ovens, and this is their latest, largest model. (The name, I suppose, is short for professional. Or maybe Uuniversity Professor? No way of knowing.) The draw of wood fire is fast cooking with a smoky finish. Uuni Pro has a variety of ways to get you hot: a coalhole at the back takes charcoal and wood, or you can hook up a gas or pellet burner. Charcoal and logs get up to heat within 20 minutes, and burn up to a huge 500C/932F, trackable by thermometer on the door. There are minor issues: the door has a viewing window that blackens on the very first bake, and also tends to flip open at random, as if operated by a poltergeist sous-chef. Laying down four interlocking pizza stones, and removing them again when cool, feels like being a Sisyphean tiler, with a lady of the house who keeps making me redo the floor.

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